Traditionally, Memorial Day in Vermont is considered the start of summer, with Labor Day being the end. Picking your way through the undergrowth and over blow-downs to get to a sacred, but cursed as the story goes, mineral springs, can lead to viewing all sorts of wildlife. Total count at the end of the day: 10 ticks, 3 white-tail deer, 2 turkey buzzards, 1 heron, and a moose in a pond.
Getting to Brunswick Springs is purposely difficult. The path is clear enough coming from the south and going around the eastern side of the bog/pond, but there is a lot of climbing over trees, and scrabbling through the undergrowth (hence the 10 ticks). Thankfully, the dry weather we've had recently evaporated all the soggy areas that would've made the trek impossible.
As we came to the pond, daughter's yelling, "Mom, there's a moose!" certainly got the moose's attention. Luckily, said moose was across a good few yards of water from us near a sand spit jutting out from the other shore, but close enough to see, as the moose whipped up it's head, the look on it's face (truly, a moose can have a look on it's face). It was definitely in the range of, "where the hell did you come from?" Mr./Ms. Moose headed the opposite direction toward the western shore, and we continued north on the eastern shore.
25 years ago when I visited this place, it was very clear where the ruins of the last hotel (which burned in 1930) were. Today, we had to search for and almost missed the granite and concrete blocks indicating the front steps, and had to dodge small trees to walk around the foundation. The steep stone stairways to the springs are still in good shape though, with metal railings that were not loose or rickety. Definitely sulfur in the air!
If anyone decides to visit, PLEASE be careful at the lookout spots. The riverbanks have given way and the rim trail is obliterated in some locations. The view of New Hampshire across the Connecticut River where you can see it, is beautiful. We even spied canoeists/kayakers on the river way below us.
Also remember that this is a venerated area for the Abenakis. We saw remnants of prayer flags & ribbons in the trees near the 6 springs, as well as small shrines in various niches. Anything that is left with intent should be left alone.
So, the next few posts will be pictures of the springs & ruins (and hopefully some part of the moose). To read an interview with a gentleman whose father built the last hotel at Brunswick Springs, go to: http://www.vpr.net/news_detail/86730/. A picture of the Brunswick Springs Hotel can be found if you click the title. Collector of local folk stories, Joe Citro, told about Brunswick Springs in his book Cursed in New England: Stories of Damned Yankees.
All-in-all, a fascinating journey!
Happy trails!
Monday, May 31, 2010
Short Background on Brunswick Springs
This is from the VT Historical Society in an article dealing with the railroads along the CT River:
**The Brunswick Mineral Springs lie along the Connecticut River, about two miles south of the railroad junction at North Stratford, NH. Brunswick Springs consists of six separate mineral springs that boil out of a steep bank sixty-five feet above the river. The six springs contain, in order, arsenic, bromide, sulfur, magnesium, calcium, and iron. According to The History of Brunswick, Vermont, the story is told that Indians from Lake Magog brought a British soldier to the springs in 1784 to heal a wounded arm. (26) Not long after, the first Brunswick citizen began to take boarders into his home for mineral water treatments, and a tourism industry was established.
The heyday of Brunswick Springs coincided with the Gilded Age. In his essay, Arcadia in New England: Divergent Visions of a Changing Vermont, 1850-1920, Kevin Graffagnino recounts how communities such as Brunswick Springs advertised their waters as a cure for “rheumatism, diabetes, syphilis, cancer, and virtually any other human ailment.” (46) This was a specious claim, but effective. To the city folk of the Gilded Age, locations such as Brunswick Springs offered not only a rural retreat from the summer heat, but a cure to all their ills as well.
The Brunswick Springs House was built above the springs drawing patients far and near. The development that allowed this was the railroad. Patients seeking the healing waters of the springs were able to travel by rail to North Stratford where they were then taken by stage to the Brunswick Springs House. Visitors would spend the summer before retuning to the city refreshed and healed. The success was temporary however. A fire burned down the original Brunswick Springs House. Two subsequent attempts to rebuild also met a fiery fate, leading to the legend that the grounds were cursed by the original Native American inhabitants to punish anyone looking to profit from the springs' healing waters.**
**The Brunswick Mineral Springs lie along the Connecticut River, about two miles south of the railroad junction at North Stratford, NH. Brunswick Springs consists of six separate mineral springs that boil out of a steep bank sixty-five feet above the river. The six springs contain, in order, arsenic, bromide, sulfur, magnesium, calcium, and iron. According to The History of Brunswick, Vermont, the story is told that Indians from Lake Magog brought a British soldier to the springs in 1784 to heal a wounded arm. (26) Not long after, the first Brunswick citizen began to take boarders into his home for mineral water treatments, and a tourism industry was established.
The heyday of Brunswick Springs coincided with the Gilded Age. In his essay, Arcadia in New England: Divergent Visions of a Changing Vermont, 1850-1920, Kevin Graffagnino recounts how communities such as Brunswick Springs advertised their waters as a cure for “rheumatism, diabetes, syphilis, cancer, and virtually any other human ailment.” (46) This was a specious claim, but effective. To the city folk of the Gilded Age, locations such as Brunswick Springs offered not only a rural retreat from the summer heat, but a cure to all their ills as well.
The Brunswick Springs House was built above the springs drawing patients far and near. The development that allowed this was the railroad. Patients seeking the healing waters of the springs were able to travel by rail to North Stratford where they were then taken by stage to the Brunswick Springs House. Visitors would spend the summer before retuning to the city refreshed and healed. The success was temporary however. A fire burned down the original Brunswick Springs House. Two subsequent attempts to rebuild also met a fiery fate, leading to the legend that the grounds were cursed by the original Native American inhabitants to punish anyone looking to profit from the springs' healing waters.**
Friday, May 28, 2010
Indian Stone Pictures
These stones are located on Route 106 south of Reading.
The Crown Point Road's terminus was at Fort No. 4 in Charlestown, NH. In 1754, while living near the Fort, nine-months pregnant Susannah Johnson was captured with her family by Indians and forced to march to Quebec. Near these stones along the river in the background, she gave birth to her daughter. She and the baby were allowed to live and were eventually ransomed back to Fort No. 4 after spending time in Quebec.
Cavendish Crown Point Road Pictures
This house had been moved back from the road in just the past couple years. It's a later-style home, but still pre-Civil War.
One of the mile markers along the Crown Point RoadThis home was at the top of a hill, and the views of Hawks Mountain opposite were lovely, but my picture-taking skills did not do the view justice...some other members of the group took that moment to talk about the supposed French & Indian War cannon that locals swear they have seen on Hawks Mountain.
Crown Point Military Road
Met with 20 others on Sunday, May 23rd on the back roads of Cavendish for a guided hike/tour of parts of the old Crown Point Road. We started in an old settler's cemetery off Brook Road to hear information on some of the Revolutionary War veterans who are buried there. The oldest stone in the cemetery is a beautifully preserved slate gravestone from 1778. While I ended up hiking only half the intended route due to time constraints (still 1-1/2 miles all uphill it seemed!), it was a beautiful day for a walk & learning about local history is always fascinating.
Apparently there was also a walking tour in Cavendish the same day relating to the 150th anniversay of Phineas Gage's death. Phineas's skull & tamping iron are located now at Harvard University's Warren Anatomical Museum. His case has been widely studied and is credited with giving researchers more insight into the workings of the brain & psychology. Read more about Phineas Gage here: cavendishhistoricalsocietynews.blogspot.com and on Wikipedia. I would have like to done that tour too, but there is only 1 of me.
Next up: Old Stone House Museum in Brownington *oldstonehousemuseum.org* on Sunday, May 29th and the cursed and haunted Brunswick Springs in Brunswick *www.vermonter.com/brunswick-springs.asp* on Memorial Day.
Happy trails!
Apparently there was also a walking tour in Cavendish the same day relating to the 150th anniversay of Phineas Gage's death. Phineas's skull & tamping iron are located now at Harvard University's Warren Anatomical Museum. His case has been widely studied and is credited with giving researchers more insight into the workings of the brain & psychology. Read more about Phineas Gage here: cavendishhistoricalsocietynews.blogspot.com and on Wikipedia. I would have like to done that tour too, but there is only 1 of me.
Next up: Old Stone House Museum in Brownington *oldstonehousemuseum.org* on Sunday, May 29th and the cursed and haunted Brunswick Springs in Brunswick *www.vermonter.com/brunswick-springs.asp* on Memorial Day.
Happy trails!
Monday, May 17, 2010
Photos of Ethan Allen Homestead & Tower
Ethan Allen Tower
Ethan Allen's last home.
Captain Morrill's Company
The gazebo at the Pinnacle
Ethan Allen Homestead and Ethan Allen Park
Saturday, May 15th, Daughter and I packed up a picnic and visited the Ethan Allen Homestead in Burlington. Weather held out thankfully. The Vermont writer & preservationist, Ralph Nading Hill, was the man who discovered this home under layers of ells and dormers. He was able to trace the land records back to figure it out. What stands now is a 1-1/2 story red cape outfitted with the trappings of life in the late 18th century. The tour takes about 20 minutes, and parts of it are hands-on for those who like to touch.
In the visitor center, there are several activities for families centered around the archealogical digs on the farm. Ask if you "have" to sit through the 17-minute video though - kids would be hard pressed to not fidget (and some adults too).
The living history demonstration & camp was interesting for those that like that sort of thing. The group re-enacting was called Captain Morrill's Company and they had done their research well. Clothing, tents, cooking utensils, muskets, a small cannon, and some old fashioned games caught the attention of the younger visitors. The original Captain Morrill had been with Ethan Allen at his capture of Fort Ticonderoga.
Daughter took part in a children's militia parading around the field, stopping to load and fire their "arms." Daughter also learned how to make fire from striking flint against hardened steel and using the sparks to light flax (or dry grass, or a bird's nest), so had to warn Husband to hide his tools when we got home. I'm sure she'll try it somehow!
We spent about 2-1/2 hours there. If there had been more activities, we might have stayed longer. Ethan Allen Homestead does host a variety of special events, which you can look up on their website.
If you turn right as you head out of the Homestead site, and turn right again onto North Avenue, it's just a short distance to Ethan Allen Park (also on the right) which occupies land that used to belong to Ethan's farm. Daughter and I decided to walk up to the Ethan Allen Tower lookout, and then further on the path to the Pinnacle and the stone gazebo lookout. It's all on paved paths, although you do have to beware of bicyclists coming around the corners. No bugs, but an encounter with a racoon (who growled at us - yikes! - she didn't want her picture taken apparently).
Once back in the car, we turned left out of the park and drove down North Avenue to Battery Park looking out over the Burlington waterfront. Archealogical digs in the park and nearby have unearthed skeletons from the War of 1812 time period when over 1200 soldiers were encamped here *www.historiclakes.org/explore/burlington.htm*.
Supper at a Friendly's - grilled cheese & raw veggies AND a raspberry/mango sorbet. All-in-all, a great day!
Next weekend on Saturday the 22d, we may go to the Medieval Fair in Jericho, and on Sunday the 23rd, I anticipate hiking the Crown Point Trail as mentioned below.
In the visitor center, there are several activities for families centered around the archealogical digs on the farm. Ask if you "have" to sit through the 17-minute video though - kids would be hard pressed to not fidget (and some adults too).
The living history demonstration & camp was interesting for those that like that sort of thing. The group re-enacting was called Captain Morrill's Company and they had done their research well. Clothing, tents, cooking utensils, muskets, a small cannon, and some old fashioned games caught the attention of the younger visitors. The original Captain Morrill had been with Ethan Allen at his capture of Fort Ticonderoga.
Daughter took part in a children's militia parading around the field, stopping to load and fire their "arms." Daughter also learned how to make fire from striking flint against hardened steel and using the sparks to light flax (or dry grass, or a bird's nest), so had to warn Husband to hide his tools when we got home. I'm sure she'll try it somehow!
We spent about 2-1/2 hours there. If there had been more activities, we might have stayed longer. Ethan Allen Homestead does host a variety of special events, which you can look up on their website.
If you turn right as you head out of the Homestead site, and turn right again onto North Avenue, it's just a short distance to Ethan Allen Park (also on the right) which occupies land that used to belong to Ethan's farm. Daughter and I decided to walk up to the Ethan Allen Tower lookout, and then further on the path to the Pinnacle and the stone gazebo lookout. It's all on paved paths, although you do have to beware of bicyclists coming around the corners. No bugs, but an encounter with a racoon (who growled at us - yikes! - she didn't want her picture taken apparently).
Once back in the car, we turned left out of the park and drove down North Avenue to Battery Park looking out over the Burlington waterfront. Archealogical digs in the park and nearby have unearthed skeletons from the War of 1812 time period when over 1200 soldiers were encamped here *www.historiclakes.org/explore/burlington.htm*.
Supper at a Friendly's - grilled cheese & raw veggies AND a raspberry/mango sorbet. All-in-all, a great day!
Next weekend on Saturday the 22d, we may go to the Medieval Fair in Jericho, and on Sunday the 23rd, I anticipate hiking the Crown Point Trail as mentioned below.
Wednesday, May 12, 2010
I Love Brochures!
Just picked up some travel brochures the other day at one of our friendly neighborhood I-89 rest stops.
I'm intrigued with the Henry Sheldon Museum in Middlebury, as well as the VT Folklife Center next to it. I have a couple copies of "Visit'n" from the Folklife Center, which are collections of oral interviews with old & new Vermonters. The Henry Sheldon Museum of Vermont History (the elongated title) is the oldest community museum in the United States, chartered in 1882.
The Merck Forest & Farmland Center in Rupert (I confess, I will have to look on the map to see where Rupert is...) also looks like a great outdoor jaunt, with 30 miles of nature trails plus an organic farm with rare breed animals.
I also picked up the timetables for Amtrak's "Vermonter" and "Ethan Allen Express" trains. There was an article in a Vermont Magazine *www.vermontmagazine.com* about traveling from Essex Junction to Brattleboro on the Vermonter to shop the downtown. I thought it would be interesting to stay overnight there at the Latchis Hotel & Theater *www.latchis.com* - the upstairs has been converted into hotel rooms. They have a few neat movie & overnight packages listed on their website. Brattleboro also hosts a Gallery Walk the first Friday of every month (next one June 4th), that would be a very good reason to play hooky from work on a Friday!
Looking forward to the re-enactment this weekend! Weather looks to be near-perfect!
Happy trails!
I'm intrigued with the Henry Sheldon Museum in Middlebury, as well as the VT Folklife Center next to it. I have a couple copies of "Visit'n" from the Folklife Center, which are collections of oral interviews with old & new Vermonters. The Henry Sheldon Museum of Vermont History (the elongated title) is the oldest community museum in the United States, chartered in 1882.
The Merck Forest & Farmland Center in Rupert (I confess, I will have to look on the map to see where Rupert is...) also looks like a great outdoor jaunt, with 30 miles of nature trails plus an organic farm with rare breed animals.
I also picked up the timetables for Amtrak's "Vermonter" and "Ethan Allen Express" trains. There was an article in a Vermont Magazine *www.vermontmagazine.com* about traveling from Essex Junction to Brattleboro on the Vermonter to shop the downtown. I thought it would be interesting to stay overnight there at the Latchis Hotel & Theater *www.latchis.com* - the upstairs has been converted into hotel rooms. They have a few neat movie & overnight packages listed on their website. Brattleboro also hosts a Gallery Walk the first Friday of every month (next one June 4th), that would be a very good reason to play hooky from work on a Friday!
Looking forward to the re-enactment this weekend! Weather looks to be near-perfect!
Happy trails!
Sunday, May 9, 2010
Decisions and Thoughts
Saturday, May 15th, I will be going to the Ethan Allen Homestead to see the re-enactments with Daughter and possibly Son.
Sunday, May 23rd, Mom and I will be hiking the Crown Point Road from the Morgan Cemetery (marker 27) in Cavendish to marker 26 or 25 depending on "knee" status. The trail follows a road, so we can probably drive some of it, and leap into the woods at various markers. Mom owns the Crown Point Road Association guidebook, so we can read all about each spot.
Sunday, May 30th, I will be traveling in and near my hometown of Cambridge to see local artists during Vermont's Open Studio Weekend. On the itinerary are Nancy Hayden's Northwind Studio and Gallery on Rte 15 between Jeffersonville and Cambridge, Ralph Tursini's Woodturing and Bowl Works in the Cambridge Business Park on Rte 15 outside Cambridge, Karen Winslow's Art Studio on Bartlett Hill Rd in Cambridge, Eric Tobin's Fine Art on Plot Rd in Johnson, and Matt Seasholtz's Glass Design on E Main St in Hyde Park.
Saturday, June 12th (free VT historic site day) Daughter and I will go see President Calvin Coolidge's birthplace in Plymouth. *www.historicvermont.org/coolidge* Calvin Coolidge was sworn in as President by his father, a local notary public, here in his boyhood home on August 3, 1923, after hearing of President Harding's death. Pretty much the entire village is unchanged since that day, and most of it is owned & maintained by the State of Vermont - some 2 dozen buildings according to their website. It's open late May - mid October, daily, 9:30 a.m. - 5:00 p.m.
Don't know yet what I'm doing the weekend of June 5th. Maybe see the Old Stone House in Brownington, or hike to the Brunswick Springs site. More about those later...
Happy trails!
Sunday, May 23rd, Mom and I will be hiking the Crown Point Road from the Morgan Cemetery (marker 27) in Cavendish to marker 26 or 25 depending on "knee" status. The trail follows a road, so we can probably drive some of it, and leap into the woods at various markers. Mom owns the Crown Point Road Association guidebook, so we can read all about each spot.
Sunday, May 30th, I will be traveling in and near my hometown of Cambridge to see local artists during Vermont's Open Studio Weekend. On the itinerary are Nancy Hayden's Northwind Studio and Gallery on Rte 15 between Jeffersonville and Cambridge, Ralph Tursini's Woodturing and Bowl Works in the Cambridge Business Park on Rte 15 outside Cambridge, Karen Winslow's Art Studio on Bartlett Hill Rd in Cambridge, Eric Tobin's Fine Art on Plot Rd in Johnson, and Matt Seasholtz's Glass Design on E Main St in Hyde Park.
Saturday, June 12th (free VT historic site day) Daughter and I will go see President Calvin Coolidge's birthplace in Plymouth. *www.historicvermont.org/coolidge* Calvin Coolidge was sworn in as President by his father, a local notary public, here in his boyhood home on August 3, 1923, after hearing of President Harding's death. Pretty much the entire village is unchanged since that day, and most of it is owned & maintained by the State of Vermont - some 2 dozen buildings according to their website. It's open late May - mid October, daily, 9:30 a.m. - 5:00 p.m.
Don't know yet what I'm doing the weekend of June 5th. Maybe see the Old Stone House in Brownington, or hike to the Brunswick Springs site. More about those later...
Happy trails!
Friday, May 7, 2010
Deciding Where To Go...
The main trippers will be my Mom & me. My Aunt and Daughter will be joining us on some of these trips. We have compared our lists of places we would like to see for the first time, or see again after many years, and will be getting together this weekend to hash out a rough plan. We love to drive and are not afraid of heading off the beaten path. "Yah can't get theah frum heah" is definitely NOT in our vocabulary!
First up on my list is the opening weekend of the Ethan Allen Homestead off North Avenue in Burlington on Saturday May 15th *www.ethanallenhomestead.org*. Revolutionary War period re-enactors will show visitors what military and camp life was like in the late 18th century. For those of you who haven't heard of him, Ethan Allen is a very colorful character in Vermont's history - part military hero, part land speculator, part philospher. Get an idea of what he was like on Wikipedia.
Second is a hike on a portion of the Crown Point Military Road, which ran from Fort No. 4 in Charlestown, NH to Crown Point, NY. It was the first major East to West road in the wilds of Vermont built right around the time of the French and Indian Wars. The Crown Point Road Association *www.crown-point-road.org* will be leading this hike starting in Cavendish at 1:30pm on Sunday, May 23rd.
I'll tell you all about it in a future post!
Upcoming Events:
Open Studio Weekend, May 29 & 30 - local artists open their studios to the public *www.vermontartscouncil.org* for a list of artists & driving maps. Great way to see the back road scenery!
Vermont Days, June 12 & 13 - VT state historical sites and state parks are free *www.historicvermont.org/events* for special happenings around the state that weekend.
Happy trails!
First up on my list is the opening weekend of the Ethan Allen Homestead off North Avenue in Burlington on Saturday May 15th *www.ethanallenhomestead.org*. Revolutionary War period re-enactors will show visitors what military and camp life was like in the late 18th century. For those of you who haven't heard of him, Ethan Allen is a very colorful character in Vermont's history - part military hero, part land speculator, part philospher. Get an idea of what he was like on Wikipedia.
Second is a hike on a portion of the Crown Point Military Road, which ran from Fort No. 4 in Charlestown, NH to Crown Point, NY. It was the first major East to West road in the wilds of Vermont built right around the time of the French and Indian Wars. The Crown Point Road Association *www.crown-point-road.org* will be leading this hike starting in Cavendish at 1:30pm on Sunday, May 23rd.
I'll tell you all about it in a future post!
Upcoming Events:
Open Studio Weekend, May 29 & 30 - local artists open their studios to the public *www.vermontartscouncil.org* for a list of artists & driving maps. Great way to see the back road scenery!
Vermont Days, June 12 & 13 - VT state historical sites and state parks are free *www.historicvermont.org/events* for special happenings around the state that weekend.
Happy trails!
Why Am I Doing This?
Simply, I'm a Vermonter. Born here; raised here; live here; will probably die here. I've traveled many places in Vermont, but there is ALWAYS something new and interesting cropping up. Vermonters re-invent themselves over and over and over. Dairy farms that are teetering on the brink of bankruptcy have sold off the cows and are now raising organic meats and produce. Cheese and wine-making and coffee roasting have flourished here. I read recently that, per capita, Vermont has the most writers living here, and the 2d most artists. We are a diverse state population, not necessarily in color, but in interests and acceptance of differences.
Yeah, I'm proud to be a Vermonter. If sharing these day trips with you makes you want to visit and see what we're all about, then I've accomplished something good.
Happy trails!
Yeah, I'm proud to be a Vermonter. If sharing these day trips with you makes you want to visit and see what we're all about, then I've accomplished something good.
Happy trails!
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